Best Fall Perfume – new October 2012

The Best Fall Perfume releases continue on in October 2012

 

Marchesa, the partnership between Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, launched its first perfume in 2012. Marchesa Parfum D’Extase, created by perfumer Annie Buzantian, opens with subtle florals, iris at the crux of the scent’s richness, followed by an intoxicating woodiness that adds complexity to this fragrance’s simple beauty. Notes of iris, star anise, black currant, violet, jasmine, rose water, orange blossom, lotus flower, ambrox, and muscenone compose this perfume.best fall perfume 

Miller Harris came out with a series of limited edition fragrances inspired by the iconic scent of La Fumée.  The first in the series, La Fumée Arabie, evokes the sensuality of the exotic woods of the Middle East, and celebrates the magic and beauty of the Arabic cultures. This smoky, spicy, smoldering eau de parfum is great for both men and women. Opening notes consist of cistus absolute, cardamom, coriander seed, Egyptian cumin, incense from the Yemen, Moroccan cedar, and birch tar. With air getting crisper, this will be one of the bets fall perfume releases.

Inspiration for Parfumerie Generale DjHenné came from the city of Djenne in Mali, which is surrounded by verdant greenery, and a flowing river, that soak up the powerful African sunrays all day long. The unisex fragrance symbolizes a restful break in the tempting shade. Based on woody and light leather notes, this scent includes aromas of mint leaves, syringe flowers, and grey lavender. Middle tones incorporate cacao beans and blue cedar, closing with base notes of wheat absolute and myrrh. This eau de parfum is enigmatic and full of contradictions. Another of the best fall perfume releases.

Pear and Olive is the newest creation from Slumberhouse, a boutique label from Portland, Oregon, formed by a group of young men interested in artistic endeavors such as urban street culture, art, film, and music—especially hiphop and graffiti. They encompass realness in their style and illustrate a disregard for trends, gimmicks, and marketing clichés. Pear and Olive is an awesome mix of ethereal pear skin with a soft touch of dew, sweet olive tincture, Roman chamomile, bitter grape tissue from French white cognac oil, zdravets, and the rare aglaia absolute. To top it off, massoia bark and calamus absolute were added to provide a trace of creamy loveliness. Yum!

Celebrating the 20th birthday of Thierry Mugler perfumes, Thierry Mugler will be launching a new limited edition collection of Les Parfums de Cuir (The Fragrances of Leather). New interpretations of the four renowned fragrances, A*Men, Angel, Alien, and Womanity, were created by taking the original compositions and soaking them in leather tanks for four weeks; this concept combining the art of haute perfumery and the traditional craft of glove-making.

A*Men Pure Leather maintains the fiery A*Men classic scent while infusing it with sexy top notes of leather, bergamot, helional, lavender, and peppermint; middle notes include coffee bean, patchouli, lavender, and tar; base notes are delicious vanilla, caramel, tonka bean, chocolate, and musk. Mmmm…

Angel Leather is the same aromatic tastiness of the original Angel, but now enriched with an erotic leathery sexiness. Leather, dark chocolate, and patchouli are the main components of this fragrance, with top notes of mandarin and bergamot; middle notes of peach, apricot, passion fruit; base notes of vanilla and caramel.  Double yum!  Thierry Mugler does some great things with these adaptations, the best flankers anywhere.  These are sure to be some of the best fall perfume new releases.

Tom Ford Noir is Tom Ford’s second signature scent. This masculine fragrance has an oriental twist, opening with an earthly array of richly woven saffron, black truffle and black rose, with notes of nutmeg, black pepper, bergamot, verbena, caraway, pink pepper, violet, clary sage, vanilla, Tuscan iris, geranium, Indonesian patchouli, opoponax, civet, and vetiver oil. Moss and oud wood serve to soften the intensity, allowing the fragrance carnal equilibrium, offering stimulation and delight to the wearer.

 

 

Best Fall Perfume – New in 2012

fall perfumeFall is an amazing sense-tacular time—you’ve got the smell and look of leaves changing, the taste of hot apple cider and pumpkin pies, and the invigorating breeze that has replaced the stagnant summer air. Boldly bring in the new season by changing up your scent with some of our fall perfume new releases! 

Ann Gerard has three new fragrances out, each created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Cuire de Nacre  (originally sold as Pleine Lune) hints ever so slightly at a metallic leather and mother-of-pearl combo. Made with real orris butter, this deeply powerful fragrance has notes of angelica, ambrette, cassie, iris, leather accord, white musks, sandalwood, and styrax resin. 

Perle de Mousse is another Ann Gerard eau de parfum, original in composition yet traditional in flavor, drawing upon green-tinged florals like gardenia and hawthorn. Other notes include pink pepper, bergamot, aldehydes, clove, green mandarin, galbanum, ivy, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, lentiscus, ambergris, musk, and a hint of vanilla. 

Ciel d’Opale, or “opal sky,” finds its inspiration from the linden blossom. This perfume is the smell of heaven manifested into liquid form, encompassing the essence of powdery flowers with darker undertones of galbanum, quince, guaiac, and sandalwood. Notes of Calabrian lemon, Sichuan pepper, cassie, jasmine, mock orange, honeysuckle, amber, cedar wood, vetiver, and vanilla add to the appeal of this delicate musk. 

Two new eau de parfums came out from Kerosene  this month, Wood Haven and Fields of Rubus, created by former YouTube perfume reviewer, John Pegg. Wood Haven is based on its name: wood! Immediately upon spraying, you will smell its incredibly intense deep woods aroma with sharp citrus notes of grapefruit, lemon, and bergamot. Definitely unique in its composition, other notes include juniper, ginger, black pepper, pink pepper, vetiver, lignum vitae, and cedarwood.  Fields of Rubus is a jammy concoction of raspberry, apple, plum, patchouli, tobacco, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, and cedar notes. Because of its bright preserve overtones mixed with darker base notes, this fragrance can be considered unisex —another unique scent from Kerosene that is a must-try in the fall perfume category! 

Maison Francis Kurkdjian  came out with three new perfumes this fall. The Amyris duet, Amyris Femme and Amyris Homme, are the newest in the line, both made with care to the smallest detail. If you’re looking for that sexy, autumnal “je ne sais quoi,” Amyris Femme has an overall woody aroma with opening notes of lemon and California orange, leading into iris, amyris, vetiver from Haiti, musky amber, and agarwood. The male counterpart, Amyris Homme, is an incandescent eau de toilette, and like his sister scent, features a sensual woody iris theme with a hint of oud and spices. Other notes in this fragrance include rosemary from Morocco, mandarin from Sicily, amyris from Jamaica, coconut, coffee, milk chocolate, and tonka bean from Brazil. 

The glamorous signature scent of Bergdorf Goodman, 754 (named after their building address on 5th Avenue), takes its inspiration from the magnetism and vivacity of NYC. This unisex perfume evokes a “bright blue Manhattan morning,” using notes of florals, citrus, and musk. 

 

 

 

 

New Perfume Release at Surrender to Chance – 9/8/12

Tuvache Jungle GardeniaHermes L’Ambre des Merveilles was a new perfume release in September 2012, a flanker to the original Hermes Eau des Merveilles, created by Jean-Claude Ellena. The flanking of Eau des Merveilles has been one of the few that have worked beautifull, with each flanker providing a new aspect to the original that is unique, draws on the deep ambergris beauty of the original and augments it.

Opening with that same salty hard start of Eau des Merveilles, immediately the amber is apparent, underpinned with some richer notes like vanilla, moving this version closer to an oriental.  I’ve always had Hermes Eau des Merveilles on my “sexy perfume” list because, well, it just is.  Not overtly, but the ambergris warms and just pulls you in closer.  Hermes L’Ambre des Mervilles is on that same list. It’s richer, fuller, moving closer to overtly sexual instead of just casually sensual. I classify this as unisex.  Notes listed are amber, labdanum, vanilla and patchouli.  Definitely ambergris in there as well.

 

Nicole Richie introduced her first new perfume release in 2012 simpled called Nicole.  Steve DeMercado was the perfumer who created the fragrance.

Her inspiration for this perfume was the lotions and layered approach to fragrance of her mother.  Nicole Richie is the daughter of singer Lionel Richie, did a stint of reality TV with her pal Paris Hilton, and now designs clothing, jewelry, bags and other accessories.  Notes for Nicole are blackberries, oranges from Seville, golden amber, Moroccan rose, lily of the valley, papyrus, cashmere, sandalwood, sugared patchouli and vanilla absolute.  It is a rich slightly gourmand oriental.  

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia – vintage- is in the store, but it’s not a new perfume release, is a vintage perfume!  Here’s the back story on it -

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia was launched in the 1930s and is the best perfume and most well-loved in the Tuvache line.  Tuvache wanted to be a French perfume company during a time when American women only wanted French perfumes, and that’s why they took the name, going so far as to create a Madame deTuvache pen name for all articles written about the company. Madame Tuvache was a character straight out of Madame Bovary.perfume.jpg Tuvache’s real founder was a woman named Bernadine Angus, and she just didn’t correct publications when they referred to Tuvache as a French perfume company.

 

What a perfume Tuvache Jungle Gardenia is!  Actresses wore it – Barbara Stanwyck, Joan Crawford, Joan Bennett, Annette Funicello, Natalie Wood, Elizabeth Taylor, and Fay Wray wore it while filming King Kong.  It’s even rumored that Frank Sinatra liked a drop or two of Jungle Gardenia. In an interview, with Lisa Robinson from Vanity Fair before his death, Michael Jackson revealed he was a fan of Tuvache Jungle Gardenia and sometimes wore it.

 

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia fell out of favor until the 1970s and ‘80s, but got some juice when Bob Barker used to declare on “Truth or Consequences” that it was the sexiest perfume he had ever smelled.

 

Tuvache Jungle Gardenia is all gardenia, bright, blowsy and perfect, it’s a child of its age.  Notes of bitter orange oil, Clary sage, cyclamen, heliotrope, tuberose, tarragon, violet leaf, gardenia, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, oakmoss, benzoin, sandalwood and musk. This is the perfume you would have put on in the ’50s when your mom wasn’t looking, snuck out to smoke cigarettes and neck with boys that wre too old and much too fast for you.  Or it’s the perfume you should wear when in drag.

 

Either way, it’s amazingly great and retro and a hell of a lot of fun to wear. Apply lightly, this thing is BIG.

 

This is the pure parfum, which sticks a little close to the skin. I fear to smell the EDT.

 

 

 

Perfume Skank – what is it?

Skank 

 

(This originally appeared in our newsletter – oh, you don’t get that?  clickety click  right there to make sure you do! – and has now been added to our lexicon of perfume terms)

Well, yeah, we all think we know what it means outside of perfumery.  Ms. Merriam Webster says “repugnantly filthy or squalid” and “of low or sleazy character.”  What on earth can that word have to do with perfume when you hear someone refer to a perfume as “skanky”?
Who did put the skank in perfume?
Let’s look back at the first use of the term – not the idea, which is as old as time – January 10, 2006, by Miss March on Perfume Posse -
What I love about classic Guerlain scents is their their Guerlain-ness, that cold, often citrus-y champagne fizz atop the warm oakmoss-vanilla base, with a dollop of something even I admit is a little funky and animalic. Mentally I term it the Guerlain Skank. My guess is that you either love it or loathe it- there probably isn’t much room for compromise. Jicky has the Skank. Mitsouko has it. Cuir Beluga and Angelique Noir, lovely as they are, don’t have it and are not interesting to me. And let me be brutally clear: the Skank is not gracious, or nice, or even fundamentally pretty. The Skank is about sex, and only sex. It’s a rump-grinding, head-shaking invitation to a booty call, no matter how politely the scent’s been dressed up at the opening.”

 

From that moment on, it was a slow roll to common use, with excellent further contemplation on skank appearing everywhere -
Grain de Musc – Skanky Epiphanies
Scent and Sensibility – Skank
Katie Puckrik on Beauty and the Dirt – Penhaligon’s Amaranthine
Most of the Reviews on Makeup Alley for Miller Harris L’Air de Rien
Most of the Reviews on Makeup Alley for Hermes Eau d’Hermes
L.A. Times Magazine – Carnal Charms
Basenotes – Filth Glorious Filth
Tim Girvin’s really excellent piece  - The Perfume of Sex
Meredith on Perfume Posse – Bal a Versailles Walk of Shame
Rumor has it – and I really don’t care if it’s true or not because great stories need not be true as long as they are great – that Napoleon wrote to Josephine-
“I’m returning home in three days. Don’t wash.”
Skank flies in the face of America’s love of clean, scrubbed laundry smells. Skank is the smell of life’s private decay and stink, the closeness of another human body, the tenuous link to humanity.  With sanitized smells in every bottle and corner of our lives, skank reminds us that we won’t live forever.

Roja Dove Perfume Extraits – new in the Store!

Hey,  Roja Dove is at The Chance!  Roja Dove has his exclusive Haute Parfumerie at Harrod’s in London, and it carries some of the finest and most exclusive fragrances around the world. In addition to those lines, he has created his own line of Roja Dove fragrances, some tributes to historical perfume, some that are limited editions for special events.  We have had several of his perfumes for a long time, but we are really excited to bring some of his extraits to you!
 
  • Roja Dove Blessings for Belinda Brown
  • Danger extrait (British Fifi Best New Female Fragrance in Limited Distribution Award winner 2012)
  • Innuendo extrait
  • Mischief extrait
  • Risque extrait
  • Reckless extrait
  • Roja Dove Diaghilev (limited, this was for the Victoria and Albert Museum)   
 
Also new - 
 
Byredo Bullion - Byredo’s newest fragrance, available only in London, it has Top notes of pink pepper and black plum; middle notes of osmanthus, magnolia and leather accord; and base notes of dark woods, sandalwood and sensual musks
Micallef Black Ananda - Top notes of lemon, perfume.jpgplum and bigarade; middle notes of tuberose, ylang ylang, jasmine and neroli; and base notes of benzoin, vanilla and white musk. this is a feminine white floral.